The View National Express Winter 2017 - 91
ROASTS ◆
The Gallery Mess
CHELSEA
Set in the grand surroundings
of the Saatchi Gallery, this
eatery is certainly not style
over substance.
Wanting to leave plenty of
room for my roast dinner, I
kept my starter simple and
chose the butternut squash
and wild mushroom soup
- deliciously smooth. My
wife opted for the plentiful
Caesar salad.
I was pleased by how
closely the restaurant sticks
to the traditional virtues of
a roast dinner. I plumped
for the beef and it arrived
exactly how I requested
- rare - with the trimmings
all there in their glory.
Carrots, Brussels sprouts,
roast potatoes and an all
encompassing Yorkshire pud
filled my plate.
My wife enjoyed every last
mouthful of the roast turkey
- a meat that is usually tricky
to perfect because it dries out
if overcooked - but this was
moist and full of flavour.
I'm looking forward to
returning to try the desserts!
Robin Chalk
King's Road, Chelsea, SW3 4RY
saatchigallery.com/gallerymess
Ealing Park Tavern,
EALING
With its roaring fires and cosy
vibe, this former inn-turnedboozer-turned-fancy-gastro-pub is
built for roasts in colder months.
You don't need to see the menu
to realise that this is not a place
for vegetarians. Every wall is
festooned with stuffed animals
and birds - a pair of puffins here,
a wild boar there. Although a
few of these exotic species have
made it onto the menu, my wife
and I decided to keep it classic.
My creamy chestnut soup
is dotted with morsels of
confit pheasant and truffle oil.
Meanwhile, my wife's curried
parsnip soup arrived un-gamified,
instead topped with coconut.
For the roasts, my wife
plumped for beef (45-day aged
Cumbrian shorthorn no less)
and I settled on the slow roast
middle white pork belly. Both
beasts were cooked perfectly,
the beef with just a hint of pink
but a tractor-load of flavour; the
pork belly melt-in-the-mouth
soft with toffee-crisp crackling
and spiced apple sauce.
Piled with huge Yorkshires,
roasties and assorted roots,
slathered in rich gravy, there was
a risk we wouldn't have room for
dessert. Sticky toffee pud and
dark chocolate mousse proved
too much to resist though.
We left as stuffed as the pub's
puffins and made a vow to make
like geese and return in spring.
Callum McGeoch
222 South Ealing Road,
Ealing W5 4RL
ealingparktavern.co.uk
91
http://www.saatchigallery.com/gallerymess
http://ealingparktavern.co.uk
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of The View National Express Winter 2017
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