The View National Express Autumn 2017 - 89

TA S T E S E N S AT I O N S ◆

The Potato Project
SOHO

Both here and in owner
Ksenia Karpenko's native
Russia, the jacket potato is a
food staple - but in the UK,
the toppings tend to be, well,
unimaginative, to say the least.
But not at The Potato
Project. The freshly baked
potatoes are filled with really
delicious toppings, from
borlotti bean, tomato and
mature cheddar cheese to the
fabulous pulled BBQ duck,
mozzarella and sesame seeds.
That's not to say you
can't get tuna - well, tuna
mayonnaise, roasted corn
and pickled red onion. In fact,
Ksenia told me, it's the one
thing they daren't take off the
menu. 'We regularly change
the menu,' she said, 'but tuna's
so popular we'd be in big
trouble if we took it off.'
Another favourite is autumn
wild mushrooms, spinach, blue
cheese and truffle oil.
If, by chance, your potato
doesn't fill you up, sides include
sweet potato hummus with
pear. For the very hungry, gin
and tonic ice cream is one of
three well-chosen desserts.
David Crozier
27 Noel Street, Soho W1F 8GZ
thepotatoproject.com

Archipelago
FITZROVIA

It's so rare these days to find
something that really stands out
in a city teaming with the weird
and wonderful, but Archipelago is
uniquely different. You even have
to give a password to enter.
As you take your place, a chest
is placed in front of you containing
scrolls bound with flower stems.
Your menu. And this is where
the fun really begins.
For my starter I chose crocodile
in vine leaves, honey poached
plums and pickled samphire, but
I could just as easily have chosen
crispy zebra jerky (my wife
Marie's choice), pan-fried
chermoula crickets or smoked
python carpaccio. This is what
makes Archipelago so good
- there's a real sense of being
taken on a journey of discovery.
For mains? Zhug-marinated
kangaroo skewers. Think of a
succulent medium-rare steak.

Marie - a nervous
eater when it comes
to the unknown -
had crocodile curry and
admitted it was one of
the best curries she'd had.
She was less impressed when I
ordered a side of queen leaf eater
ants. I gobbled up the lot. She
looked at me in disbelief.
Pudding for me was chocolatecovered scorpions. You get two, I
would have liked more. They taste
bitter, which works well with the
sweet coating, but they're small and
I inhaled the whole dish in seconds.
Fortunately, Marie's caramel
mealworms were still being stared
at with trepidation, so doing what
any brave, selfless husband would
do, I ate them for her. For those
wondering, caramel mealworms
taste like peanut butter.
I cannot recommend this
restaurant highly enough.
Giles Mole
53 Cleveland Street, Fitzrovia W1T 4JJ

For prices and travel options to London from around
the UK, visit nationalexpress.com

89


http://www.thepotatoproject.com

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