The View National Express Autumn 2017 - 72

VENICE

Known for centuries as
La Serenissima, Venice's
reputation for peacefulness
has been marred by recent
protests against tourism as
the city struggles to cope
with its millions of visitors.
Avoiding the summer rush
is one way to encourage a
warmer welcome from the
locals, who are growing
increasingly tired of
cruise-ship travellers.
Even in autumn, when
I visited, the city's bridges
and iconic gondolas were
groaning with tourists, while
the canals were choked with
public vaporetti (water
buses) and water taxis.
A gondola trip for two is
a luxury: I climbed aboard
one with five other people,
splitting the €80 fare. The
gondolier spent the entire
40-minute journey talking
on his mobile phone while
navigating various canals.
Hardly romantic.
On land, the place to
start exploring is St Mark's
Square, which is dominated

ST MARK'S
SQUARE

72

THE FLOATING
CITY OF VENICE

passed everything from
souvenir shops and 'hole in
the wall' pizza parlours to
quality bookshops. I was
surprised at times to turn a
corner into a quiet square
or cross an empty bridge
just seconds away from the
madding crowd. The Rialto
Back streets
looked as gorgeous as I had
I wanted to go up the bell
expected from afar, but
tower, but couldn't face
you need to walk behind
another queue. Tickets are
the bridge's tourist shops to
€7.50 and there is a lift,
gaze down the Grand Canal.
rather than steps.
From here I headed to
Instead, I lost myself
Harry's Bar for a Bellini.
in the side streets
Opened in 1931, this
and headed to
St Mark's
famous bar was
the iconic
Square is prone
to flooding. When the
a favourite of
Rialto
water is very deep, duck
writer Ernest
bridge. I
boards are put out for
Hemingway.
It
walking on.
was such a treat to
drink in the history
- and the peach fizz.
The next day I continued
my history lesson by visiting
the Doge's Palace, now a
museum. For €18, I spent
an afternoon exploring its
wonderful art and sculpture
collection, although the
highlight was peeking out
at the Bridge of Sighs.
by the amazing Byzantine
façade of St Mark's Basilica.
It's free to enter, although
the queue is intimidating
- but I couldn't miss seeing
the golden ceiling mosaics
for myself.

A man's
world
Venice did
not have its
first female
gondolier
until 2010,
when
Giorgia
Boscolo
passed the
strict exams
to qualify.
Her success
may not
have come
as a total
surprise as
her father
was a
gondolier.
He said of
her success:
'I still think
being a
gondolier
is a
man's job.'



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of The View National Express Autumn 2017

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