NationalExpressSummer2017 - 96

Hook

CAMDEN
It's been six years since Simon
Whiteside and Barry Wallace started
selling Japanese-style fish and
chips on a market stall in Dublin,
swapping batter for tempura
and panko breadcrumbs.
They developed their concept
with two restaurants in Brussels,
then headed to London to open
industrial-chic chippy Hook in
2015. And it's been worth the wait.
The fish on offer at Hook
change according to the day's catch
off the Cornish coast. It is then
battered or 'breadcrumbed' and
served with a tailored sauce.
My generous fillet of codling
in classic panko breadcrumbs
was flaky and succulent, without
being greasy, and while I liked the

Hook only
buys fish from
100% sustainable
small fisheries and
day boats.

homemade tartar sauce, I preferred
a saki ketchup dip.
My friend chose the rather
unappetising-looking black Guinness
and squid ink tempura haddock
- but the flavours combined so well,
we ended up sharing it.
There's a plethora of dips (my
overall favourite was the garlic
truffle) and sides, such as crunchy
popcorn cockles - an on-trend
interpretation of the classic seaside
snack - and a zingy cucumber
and samphire citron salad.
It works because the twists aren't
too outrageous - a homemade
seaweed salt has a gritty under
taste that enhances the thick,
skin-on potato chips.
Natalie Bowen
63-65 Parkway, Camden NW1 7PP,
hookrestaurants.com

Toff's

MUSWELL HILL
Having seen its takeaway
queues spilling down the
road, I was intrigued to dine
in the restaurant.
This north London gem has
traditional décor with black
and white photos of famous
fans, including snooker
star Ronnie 'The Rocket'
O'Sullivan and Iron Maiden
drummer Nicko McBrain, who
pay tribute to the restaurant's
long-standing popularity.
The calamari starter was
perfectly cooked for my
liking - the rings were
extremely tender. The
battered haddock was golden
and mouth-wateringly
crispy, while the grilled cod
is a tasty, healthy option.
Don't miss the yummy
chargrilled butterfly king
prawns in garlic and white
wine - they're so moreish.
And the portions of sides
such as coleslaw, mushy peas
or golden chips, are generous.
Toff's offers quality food
and a great, friendly service
- just don't forget to book.
Victoria Ireland
38 Muswell Hill Broadway
N10 3RT, toffsfish.co.uk

96



http://www.hookrestaurants.com http://sh.co.uk

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